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NORTH COUNTRY KITCHEN: Summer’s super fruit: tart cherries

Cherry blossoms herald the coming of spring, but cherries announce that summer is in full bloom.

Known in western Asia since prehistoric times, cherries spread to Europe with the Roman Empire. In the 1300s, France’s King Charles V planted more than 1,000 cherry trees in his gardens at St. Paul and Tournelle. Colonists brought them to America, and today the United States is the largest producer of cherries in the world. Michigan, Washington, California, and Oregon are known for their cherry orchards.

Glistening, juicy, and delicious, cherries come in two basic types: tart (Prunus cerasus), also known as pie cherries, and sweet (Prunus avium). These two groups include more than 900 varieties of sweet red cherries and over 300 tart ones. In addition to red, sweet varieties also come in yellow and black. While 2/3 or sweet cherries are eaten fresh, 99% of tart cherries are either frozen, canned, dried, or made into juice.

Like other stone fruits, cherries don’t grow in our cold Adirondack climate, but are available in our region from growers in the St. Lawrence and Champlain valleys, and are abundant in western New York’s orchards. The best way to enjoy them in season is raw and fresh – just rinse under some cool water and relish the awesome flavor as the cherry pops in your mouth, releasing its juice. This ideal snack is nutrient-dense, containing just 84 calories (sweet) and 52 calories (tart) per cup of fruit.

Modern medical research has shown that red pigment in cherries is related to high levels of antioxidants that help combat inflammation in the body. All cherries are rich in vitamin C, fiber, potassium, and beta carotene, but sour cherries have more of these nutrients, though they’re not often eaten fresh. The sour flavor is derived from numerous phytochemical compounds that act as antioxidants have anti-inflammatory properties.

Anthocyanins are natural plant compounds responsible for the red color of cherries. While they’re found in both sweet and tart varieties, dark, tart cherries have higher concentrations of these compounds; in general, the darker the color, the higher the anthocyanin content.

Anthocyanins have anti-inflammatory properties; they work by blocking COX-1 and COX-2 enzymes. This is similar to anti-inflammatory drugs like Ibuprofen, Naproxen and aspirin. This is why cherries can help reduce arthritis pain. In studies, cherry anthocyanins have reduced pain and inflammation in rats. According to the Encyclopedia of Healing Foods (2005), black cherries were once used as a therapy for gout.

The anthocyanins in sour cherries also improve cardiovascular health. They help maintain the walls of blood vessels, which reduce the risk of both heart attacks and strokes. Sour cherries are rich in potassium, which helps reduce blood pressure. They are high in iron, preventing anemia. They’re a good source of melatonin, an important antioxidant and sleep enhancer, with tart cherries containing 4 times more than sweet.

A Michigan State University study showed that anthocyanins may also help combat diabetes; they dramatically increased insulin production in animal cells. They’re also found in red grapes, strawberries and blueberries, but in smaller concentrations. Processing may limit the anthocyanin content; more than half is lost after 6 months in the freezer.

Along with blueberries and grapes, cherries are a good source of quercetin, a brain-boosting flavonoid that may stave off depression and help prevent heart disease, with tart fruit again having a higher concentration than sweet. They also contain ellagic acid, a compound used in anti-cancer meds, which may inhibit cancer causing chemicals from damaging DNA.

Look for cherries that are firm, plump, and undamaged, with green stems. Avoid fruits that are soft, mushy, or broken. Brown stems indicate the cherries are old or have been stored improperly, and their flavor won’t be as rich. The farmer’s market or farm stand is the best source for truly fresh cherries. Eat them quickly, as they’re quite perishable.

While some love their tartness, others find it difficult to eat them fresh – so sour cherries are more often used for baking. They’re great added to salads, grain or pasta dishes, and vegetables. For example, braise kale in apple cider and add onions, apples and tart cherries. Add tart cherries to breakfast oatmeal or fruit smoothies. For longer storage, try freezing, canning, or drying cherries.

Cherry Maple Breakfast Quinoa

Ingredients:

1 cup fresh tart cherries

1 cup quinoa

1 3/4 cups water

Pinch salt

1 cup milk

1 to 2 Tablespoons maple syrup

1 to 2 Tablespoons maple syrup, or to taste

Directions:

Wash cherries. Remove stems and pits.

Place quinoa in a 1-quart pan with the water and a pinch of salt. Cover, bring to a boil, lower heat to simmer and cook until water is absorbed, 10 to 15 minutes. Add milk, stir, cover, remove from heat and let sit 5 minutes to absorb some of the liquid. Stir in cherries and maple syrup. Serve hot. Makes approximately 4 half-cup servings.

Cherry Custard Pie

Ingredients:

1 9-inch unbaked pie shell (for a single crust, deep-dish pie)

3 eggs

Pinch of salt

1/4 cup flour

2/3 cup maple syrup

2 Tablespoons sour cream

3 to 4 cups tart cherries

For the topping:

1 1/4 cup rolled oats

1/3 cup brown sugar

1/4 cup butter

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Make the filling: Separate one of the eggs and brush the bottom and sides of the crust with the egg white (this prevents it from becoming soggy).

Place the egg yolk and remaining eggs in a bowl, add the maple syrup, pinch of salt, flour and sour cream, and beat until thick; fold in cherries.

Make the topping: In another bowl, combine the oats and brown sugar and. Melt the butter and stir in.

Pour filling into pie shell. Sprinkle topping evenly over the pie.

Bake at 400 degrees for 10 minutes; reduce heat to 350 degrees and bake 50 minutes more. The custard should be set and the top nicely browned.

Makes one 9-inch pie. (six to eight servings.)

Author of the award-winning cookbook Garden Gourmet: Fresh & Fabulous Meals from your Garden, CSA or Farmers’ Market, Yvona Fast lives in Lake Clear and has two passions: cooking and writing. www.wordsaremyworld.com

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