Ana Ortega and her mother, Irma Maldonado, sell homemade tamales, a popular product at the Keene Farmers Market on Aug. 25. They have been at the market for eight years. (Provided photo — Martha Allen)

KEENE VALLEY — On any Sunday between Memorial Day weekend and the Columbus/Indigenous Peoples’ Day weekend, the Keene Farmers Market is clearly visible to travelers on state Route 73 between the hamlets of Keene and Keene Valley — the main drag from the Northway to Lake Placid and beyond.

The broad green expanse of Marcy field, dotted with tents and thronged with local residents, tourists, hikers and other visitors of all ages from near and far — many with their dogs — against a scenic mountain backdrop, has proven to be an irresistible draw.

While there were once markets in 10 towns in the Adirondack Farmers Market Cooperative, now only the Malone, Elizabethtown, Willsboro and Keene markets remain.

According to Jane Desotelle, owner/operator of Underwood Herbs since 1978 and one of the founders of the AFMC, vendors from other areas have chosen to move to the Keene Market in large part because its superior visibility ensures a larger customer base. It was not so much a matter of losing vendors from the co-operative, she said, but of vendors switching locations.

In her “History of the Adirondack Farmers Market Cooperative,” a celebration of 20 years of farmers markets in Clinton, Essex and Franklin counties, Desotelle wrote that the first market was established in Plattsburgh in 1987, sited in Trinity Park next to City Hall.

Susan King, of Sasnu’s Bizarre Bazaar, poses with some of her soft sculptures at the Keene Farmers Market on Sept. 1. (Provided photo — Martha Allen)

“Day one,” Desotelle wrote, “each vendor picked a tree from the ones skirting the park in hopes of some shade.” Marketers already had a challenge to face: “On a hot day, walking across the sunny center of the park was more than most wanted to attempt. … Our solution was a large tent that would cover all of us.”

The Plattsburgh market would go on to change its venue several more times over the years.

The second farmers market was established in 1990, in response to the request of Robert Hastings of Keene Valley’s Rivermede Farm for help to start a farmers market in Elizabethtown. That year the Plattsburgh Farmers Market voted to incorporate as a nonprofit cooperative and gave the organization its present name: Adirondack Farmers Market Cooperative.

Under the terms of the AFMC, a vendor must agree to the following: “I understand that I am required to bring to market and display not less than 70% items produced directly by me, my family or my employees. I agree to label or place signage on all other items indicating producer or place of origin.”

To this day, markets in the cooperative share a board of directors.

Zach Clemans, owner of the popular new cidery located in the former bakery in Upper Jay, displays a bottle of Jelly Baby, a sparkling wildling cider on Sept. 1. (Provided photo — Martha Allen)

Dick Crawford, like Jane Desotelle, has a long history with the farmers markets of the area, having helped to organize the Plattsburgh market 35 years ago and spending 30 years with Keene. Crawford was manager of the Keene market for 28 years, through 2022.

When Crawford began as market manager in Keene, there were only 12 vendors. During his tenure he added 113 vendors, bringing the total to 125. The board later reduced the number to 80 because of complaints from vendors that there was too much competition. When Crawford was manager, he said, there was no advertising, only word of mouth, and, of course, visibility from the road.

Crawford and his brother Douglas are fourth generation beekeepers on both sides of the family; their roots are Norwegian and Swedish.

Dick is no longer working the farmers market — although if you’re lucky you may run into him there from time to time — but there is still a bee guy. His name is Walter Wilson, and he and his father run the Border Bee Company in Chateaugay.

Knowing he was leaving, “I offered him my place at the market,” Dick said. With three generations of beekeeping to draw from and 800 hives, Wilson was the only person qualified for the job, according to Crawford. He added that most people who keep bees are hobbyists.

Keene Market Manager Brendan Richardson, craftsman and owner of Sapling Rustic Furniture, weaves a chair seat with elm bark on Aug. 25. (Provided photo — Martha Allen)

For Dick, one of the challenges of participating as an Adirondack market vendor was the omnipresent bear problem. Bears are the downfall of many a would-be beekeeper in the area. The honey itself is not the bears’ priority.

“In the wild, bears tear logs apart to get the bees’ grubs for the meat and protein.”

Bees make honey with water and nectar. At first, water makes up 50%, but as the water evaporates the honey begins to ripen, Dick explained. When the water content is down to 18%, the honey is ripe, and the bees cap the comb with wax to preserve it. Bears are drawn to the smell of the honey as it ferments. They will destroy the hive, eating the larvae as well as the honey.

Challenge: bears. Solution: electric fence.

Keene Market Manager Brendan Richardson, craftsman and proprietor at Sapling Rustic Furniture, has been participating as a Keene Market vendor for 17 years.

Vicky Rayl, Keene Farmers Market secretary, with peppers, and Julia West, with tomatoes, restock Rayl’s Burke Plants stand on Aug. 25. (Provided photo — Martha Allen)

The Keene Market was “a total success ever since we came here,” Richardson said. “Elizabethtown was bigger 28 years ago when the Keene Market was just starting. Keene is the biggest now.”

Successes and challenges will vary from year to year because the weather affects farming, although rainfall, heat and cold and other factors will affect some crops more than others. Successes and challenges can also be personal. COVID was a big challenge for the market as a whole and for each of its vendors.

Under New York state law, pop-up tents, spaced at least 12 feet apart, became mandatory in 2021, replacing the large shared tents previously used by vendors. A pop-up tent is a portable shelter that can be quickly assembled and taken down without the need for complex tools or equipment.

During the COVID epidemic of 2020-2021, there were no crafters, only ready-to-eat food and produce booths at the markets, and the number of vendors was reduced from 80 to 40. In response to the COVID-19 outbreak, New York state required nonessential businesses to temporarily close. Workers and businesses offering “essential” or “critical” services were exempt from these orders. Nonessential products were not allowed for sale and nonessential employees were not allowed.

The number of vendors has since returned to 80.

Dick Crawford, Keene Farmers Market “Bee Guy” and manager for 28 years, with honey display on Aug. 25. (Provided photo — Martha Allen)

Ironically, the switch to pop-up tents necessitated by COVID regulations was welcomed by vendors.

Joy Herfurth, maple producer, vintner and market treasurer, said “more space is good.” She appreciates less crowding provided by the COVID restrictions resulting in personal space for each vendor.

“Yes, more space, spread out, giving us a roomier atmosphere,” she said. “I’ve been going since 2018 to Keene. COVID was a real challenge, but we met all the requirements and prevailed! We are very proud of all that the Keene Market has accomplished and represents in the AFMC! Lots of hard work and dedication by all members to be successful week after week.”

Many dogs accompany their owners every Sunday, to the delight of some, but not all, who frequent the Keene Market. While leashed dogs have been permitted at the market, their presence has not always been universally appreciated.

One problem associated with the dog presence was alleviated when vendors switched to individual tents. When vendors shared the large tents, a vendor told me, dogs presented a problem by getting loose and searching out fragrant food sources inside, not infrequently lifting a leg to mark territory, a sort of canine “Kilroy was here” the way the individual tents are now set up makes them less accessible for dogs.

Asked for his views on the successes and challenges of the market, Keene town Supervisor Joe Pete Wilson replied, “The market in Keene that is operated by the Adirondack Farmers Market Coop has become a regular attraction for the town. The market offers residents, visitors, and vendors a beautiful setting to shop and eat.

“The farmers market has grown significantly in the past five to six years, and managing this growth has been our biggest challenge. Safety along Route 73 and for pedestrians on the field is a priority for us. The increased traffic was also taking a toll on the grass of Marcy Field so the town built a new gravel parking lot to keep cars off the field.

“The farmers market is a wonderful part of our summer, however we need to manage it like we are trying to manage the impact of other activities in the town. The question to ask is how big is big enough? What works for our community? “

Todd and Joanie McAuley have been selling Adirondack Kettle Korn and fresh squeezed lemonade at the Keene Farmers Market for 20 years on Sept. 1. (Provided photo — Martha Allen)